Sunday, January 25, 2009

YOGA BY BIKE


It chilled down today and windy. Here is Gerry's favorite yogee (ck past blogs if you want to know who Gerry is) peddling her way to a Ventura style class which is different from her Florida workshops.

THREE AMIGOS

The young man on the left is Brock Reynolds. He is a good friend, shreds waves to pieces, a talented artist in several mediums and the prince of the electric guitar. He also plays drums and dabbles with the violine. The other young man is Howard "Howdy" Kelly. We don't know which one of us (Patty or me) loves him more but I'm 100% sure he's hoping it's Patty. His talents go to deep and the list is too long. He and this ole ex matador who made me a guitar along with a buddy who discovered Cape Saint Francis in South Africa are guys I aspire to.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Nugget's Rainy Report


Hi, Yeah, It's me with a mug shot taken during my last escape. It was cool until that big train came zooming by and scared the holy crap outta me. I went running back down the embankment and beelined it back in my cell. Surf is a couple feet bigger when the sets come in but I don't feel like waiting. The outside reef is breaking about 3 to 4 ft overhead and my pop is getting that stupid wetsuit thingie on..takes him forever.




Friday, January 23, 2009

Patty's New Buddy




What can one say about this regular who is as passionate about fishing as Californians are about their waves. Nice sunset yesterday!

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Monday, January 19, 2009

Rico's mid day Report







A great morning on the outside. Pics don't portray it at 3 ft overhead. Patty took the surf shots on my 3rd paddle out of the day with one taken on the inside as I was coming ashore.
high of 85
waves: 8ft in the 2nd session /outside reef break
conditions: glass

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Distractions



Well..The huge waves never came although it was still picture perfect as depicted in yesterdays photos. Today as I was looking for waves that never materialized..this did. She's here everyday and besides being the only female in the water she is the only surfer who never needs a wetsuit and..she rips!









Friday, January 16, 2009

Living like kings

Just when we were thinking of how small our place is, this Volkswagen van parks next to us in Carpinteria. This couple from Oregon live here. I watched her make breakfast - very delicately. Where she's sitting converts into a bed and the table folds up. They make it work though. I took the picture from inside our motorhome through the screen window because I didn't want them to see me staring and taking pictures.
P.




Thursday, January 15, 2009

Big Swell to Arrive Friday


EVERYBODY WHO WANTS BIG WAVES SAY "YHEAAA" AND GIVE IT A BIG THUMBS UP.

So here we are around our computers, talking to lifeguards, watching the horizon, checking surfline every 5 minutes. It's all part of the ritual and it's fun and exciting.

For all who don't surf here is what's happening. Extremely large waves, originating in Japan, are due to hit the shoreline of California beginning tomorrow Friday. The storm creating these waves is so massive it is generating 55 to 85ft surf in Ireland, 30 to 50 footers for Hawaii and probably 20 to 30 ft. for central California. I may be off by 10 feet but at that size who's counting with the exception in California. Since we are parked 20 feet from the water's edge in front of one of the coasts favorite big wave surfing locations, we are told by the camp rangers we may have to evacuate.