NEW MEXICO ~ TEXAS

My friend from the Outrigger Canoe Club
My boss in the late 60's
Founder of the Surfing Heritage Foundation
What is....Dick Metz?

The Cartagena Wilsons,  photo from last week in San Clemente, CA.

TRAVELING AND RICO'S REPORT

My great niece Dakota Brown last Sunday in Venice CA.

photo lifted from Surfline. Beautiful wave at PEAHI, Maui this past Tuesday.

Nice swell headed for PR and Central Florida.

RICO REPORT / PUERTO RICO FORECAST

Tres from years past

D.R.

Offshore Deep Water Swell Height (ft)

Date

Primary Swell

Secondary Swell

Tertiary Swell

Oct 11 (Thu)

3-4ft

10s

38°

(NE)

2-3ft

6s

112°

(ESE)

1-2ft

9s

116°

(ESE)

Oct 12 (Fri)

3-4ft

11s

38°

(NE)

3-4ft

7s

106°

(ESE)

1-2ft

8s

119°

(ESE)

Oct 13 (Sat)

5-6ft

9s

105°

(ESE)

3-4ft

11s

42°

(NE)

0-1ft

7s

317°

(NW)

Oct 14 (Sun)

9-10ft

9s

80°

(E)

1-2ft

10s

40°

(NE)

1-2ft

4s

356°

(N)

Oct 15 (Mon)

14-15ft

10s

71°

(ENE)

3-4ft

7s

351°

(N)

0-1ft

0s

0°

(N)

Oct 16 (Tue)

6-7ft

9s

88°

(E)

5-6ft

7s

340°

(NNW)

4-5ft

8s

27°

(NNE)

Oct 17 (Wed) EARLY SEASON SWELL

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

Original surf art on board

Pacific Coast Hwy approaching the Ventura / L.A. county line

Old Friends David and Patty West, Santa Barbara.

Older Friends left to right: Nancy Sunfield whom I've known since kindergarten, Sandy Willie from High School and My 1st real girlfriend when we were 15 and 16 years old, Georgette. Marina del Rey last Sunday.

Patty poising as a bad ass surfer chick and our buddy Nick  who moved back to Newport Beach, CA from Indialantic, FL. Flippy Hoffman's gun, Surfing Heritage Foundation, San Clemente, CA.

The old VELZY board shack

ALONG THE WAY HOME

An old dog getting his afternoon water therapy from his loving owner.

Trucks tinted window makes for a cool lens filter

My Venice High School surf buddy, Wayne perched in the upper left corner.
Patty's view of the drive from Oregon to Ventura.

OREGON LEFTOVERS

WELCOME TO NORCAL

photo: P.S.

After a day of driving the motorhome the road starts to feel like this.

UNTIE THE DOCK LINES

Captain Ron and Kitty:
KITTY: "Gee Captain Ron...is it safe to be out there?"
CAPTAIN RON: "Well Kitty,....there's only one way to find out. Ya gotta take her out to the open sea and open her up. Anything that's gonna happen..it's gonna happen out there."

Patty: "I'm tired of working in an RV park..."
Spike: "Yeah .. me too..let's get outta here."
Patty: "OK..I'll follow you! "

On the road again!