Saturday, August 4, 2018

THE FUNNY PAGES

Money is the Bentley parked on Wall Street
Money is the new friends you make each week
Money is the inside guy at the bank
Money is the yacht right before it sank
Bet you never thought you'd want so much
Bet you never thought it'd be so tough
So you sell your soul for a piece of the pie
Now you can't sleep so you don't even try

I wouldn't want to be like you
I wouldn't want to be like you
No way
I wouldn't want to be like you
You tell a lie, you tell a lie, you tell a lie
But that don't make it true

Money is the monkey giving you a back ache
Money is the grease in the palm of a handshake
Money covers up all the evidence
Not taking all the money would have made the best sense
Bet you never thought you'd bleed that much
Bet you never thought it'd be so rough
You thought you could beat them at their game
But they wrote the rules, now you take the blame

I wouldn't want to be like you
I wouldn't want to be like you
No way
I wouldn't want to be like you
You tell a lie, you tell a lie, you tell a lie
But that don't make it true

All the players on the sidelines
Feigning shock and innocence
Hear no, see no, speak no evil
Take the fall for all of the place

Money is the orange jumpsuit you're wearing
Money is the gray roots in your blonde hair and
Money is the ex-wife and the ex-girlfriends
Money you hid is the money they're spending
Here's to the brand new diamond bracelet
Here's to the [...] ankle bracelet
Here's to the days before you went down
'Cause what goes around comes around and around

I wouldn't want to be like you
I wouldn't want to be like you
No way
Oh, I wouldn't want to be like you
You tell a lie, you tell a lie, you tell a lie
But that don't make it true

I wouldn't want to be like you
No way
Oh, I wouldn't want to be like you
You tell a lie, you tell a lie, you tell a lie
But that don't make it true
No, that don't make it true
No, that don't make it true.
AND THE " NOT SO FUNNY " PAGES

Sunday, July 22, 2018

EVERY PICTURE TELLS A STORY

Dick Metz always puts on a great show. Of all the accomplishments SHACC is his crowning achievement.

The mother of all storms. North shore, 1969
Wayne Faulkner and I sat in my van atop Pupukea  Heights . I watched a wave come into THE BAY. I counted 9 seconds from pitch to impact zone.
DICK AND BUD GETTING A LITTLE COZY AFTER TO MANY DAYS AT SEA

Pete, El Segundo / 1960's

" Those were the days my friend we thought they'd never end."
From a song 
popular during the time this photo was taken.
Black Whale parking lot, Venice, California circa 1966
Fred Hemmings at the podium 
Uncle Dick

Lisa Anderson, Joyce Hoffman, Rell Sun's daughter with Stephanie Gilmore


This was a bucket lister 40 years in the making.
Bud on my right and Dick on my left.


Pat Lennon, Dick Metz and Patty, SHACC, 2017


Friday, July 13, 2018

BELLA RIDES AGAIN / THRIVES ON GETTING HAMMERED


Bella has only surfed twice but it's obvious that she is a natural  in the water.




Aunt Patty

Surf instructors job is a relentless exposure to the extreme Florida summer sun. 



THE STEP OFF. 
Cape Kennedy launch pad

SURFINISTA GRiNd. The definition of a stuffing box is a nautical term ...the link between the prop shaft located where the shaft goes from the engine room inside the hull thru the hull to the exterior. Colombians call a stuffing box "THE BELLA".

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

jULy 4th, 2018 afternoon update

What can you do?... just keep on pickin and grinnin
and vote in November.

Doing dawn patrol with Rico..after posting the blog above....I see this at Spressard Holland Beach.

FOR FULL EFFECT CLICK TO ENLARGE


20 minutes after taking this photo the owner of this truck pulled out of the parking lot not 4 feet from where I was having a conversation with this gentleman. Needless to say our topic got real interesting as this pro slavery good ole boy inched past us. What that yellow sticker on his back window said was a portal to his core.


Sunday, July 1, 2018

WALKING ON WATER

“You conquered the wave, Garrett!” became a frequent cry.
But Garrett shook his head, denying any such thing. “I complimented it,” he said. “I paid my respects,” and in this humility he is echoing the sentiments of the sherpas, when they finally attain the summit of Everest, known to them as Chomolungma, Goddess Mother of the World.
Why do surfers chase the biggest waves? Andy Martin, a lecturer in French at Cambridge University, and also the author of a surfing book, Walking on Water, has a theory.
“Big-wave surfing is an extrapolation of small-wave surfing,” Martin told me, “but Garrett is the fundamental paradox. There’s a passage in Sartre’s Being and Nothingness that always strikes me as being about surfing. Sartre speaks of “le glissement sur l’eau”—sliding on water—and he contrasts it with skiing, le glissement sur la neige, which leaves tracks in the snow. You imprint your signature in the snow. In a sense, you’re writing in the snow.
“But in surfing no one can find your tracks. The water closes over your passage. ‘The ideal form of sliding is one that leaves no trace.’ But now the culture has been absorbed and there’s a record. This is where Garrett’s record comes in. He’s staking a claim. He wants to be remembered. He wants someone to bear witness.”

Read more: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/epic-quest-ride-worlds-biggest-wave-180969351/#zPkTXXRgB1TTEFRs.99


Garrett /  Tres Palmas

 BIG WAVES SMALL WAVES ANY WAVES"...






TRUE STORY

1998. MAKING A 28 HOUR RUN FROM LOPERON, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TO THE OUTTER BAHAMAS