EVERY PICTURE TELLS A STORY

Dick Metz always puts on a great show. Of all the accomplishments SHACC is his crowning achievement.

The mother of all storms. North shore, 1969
Wayne Faulkner and I sat in my van atop Pupukea  Heights . I watched a wave come into THE BAY. I counted 9 seconds from pitch to impact zone.

DICK AND BUD GETTING A LITTLE COZY AFTER TO MANY DAYS AT SEA

Pete, El Segundo / 1960's

" Those were the days my friend we thought they'd never end."
From a song popular during the time this photo was taken.
Black Whale parking lot, Venice, California circa 1966

Fred Hemmings at the podium 

Uncle Dick

Lisa Anderson, Joyce Hoffman, Rell Sun's daughter with Stephanie Gilmore

This was a bucket lister 40 years in the making.
Bud on my right and Dick on my left.

Pat Lennon, Dick Metz and Patty, SHACC, 2017

COOL STUFF

BELLA RIDES AGAIN / THRIVES ON GETTING HAMMERED

Bella has only surfed twice but it's obvious that she is a natural  in the water.

Aunt Patty

Surf instructors job is a relentless exposure to the extreme Florida summer sun. 

THE STEP OFF. 

Cape Kennedy launch pad

SURFINISTA GRiNd. The definition of a stuffing box is a nautical term ...the link between the prop shaft located where the shaft goes from the engine room inside the hull thru the hull to the exterior. Colombians call a stuffing box "THE BELLA".

jULy 4th, 2018 afternoon update

What can you do?... just keep on pickin and grinnin

and vote in November.

Doing dawn patrol with Rico..after posting the blog above....I see this at Spressard Holland Beach.

FOR FULL EFFECT CLICK TO ENLARGE

20 minutes after taking this photo the owner of this truck pulled out of the parking lot not 4 feet from where I was having a conversation with this gentleman. Needless to say our topic got real interesting as this pro slavery good ole boy inched past us. What that yellow sticker on his back window said was a portal to his core.

WALKING ON WATER

“You conquered the wave, Garrett!” became a frequent cry.

But Garrett shook his head, denying any such thing. “I complimented it,” he said. “I paid my respects,” and in this humility he is echoing the sentiments of the sherpas, when they finally attain the summit of Everest, known to them as Chomolungma, Goddess Mother of the World.

Why do surfers chase the biggest waves? Andy Martin, a lecturer in French at Cambridge University, and also the author of a surfing book, Walking on Water, has a theory.

“Big-wave surfing is an extrapolation of small-wave surfing,” Martin told me, “but Garrett is the fundamental paradox. There’s a passage in Sartre’s Being and Nothingness that always strikes me as being about surfing. Sartre speaks of “le glissement sur l’eau”—sliding on water—and he contrasts it with skiing, le glissement sur la neige, which leaves tracks in the snow. You imprint your signature in the snow. In a sense, you’re writing in the snow.

“But in surfing no one can find your tracks. The water closes over your passage. ‘The ideal form of sliding is one that leaves no trace.’ But now the culture has been absorbed and there’s a record. This is where Garrett’s record comes in. He’s staking a claim. He wants to be remembered. He wants someone to bear witness.”

Read more: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/epic-quest-ride-worlds-biggest-wave-180969351/#zPkTXXRgB1TTEFRs.99

Garrett /  Tres Palmas

 BIG WAVES SMALL WAVES ANY WAVES"...