Saturday, January 31, 2009

Too much surf

Actually there isn't any surf right now. The day Bill got here is when the surf died. However he did manage to get 3 hours in the water yesterday.
Regarding the two pictures below Spike didn't embellish on those two days because he knows I'm been saturated with surf and surf talk. The movie we went to see in Santa Barbara was called Waverider. It was the premier showing so all the surfers were there including Keith Malloy and Kelly Slater. They discussed the movie afterwards and answered questions. It was mainly about surfing in Ireland so the Irish director, Irish surfer (don't remember his name), script writer, cinematographer, producer, etc were all there. Of course Spike and Bill left their cameras in the car.
The next day we took off for San Clemente (we're taking advantage of Bill's rental car) to show Bill the Surfing Heritage Foundation which was founded by Dick Metz Spike's old buddy. I mean "Robbie's" old buddy - that's he calls him. Spike used to run his hobie shop in Hawaii in the late 60's or maybe it was early 70s not sure. Dick is a great guy. He's 80 years old but very wry. There's no way he looks or acts 80. He has so much going on with his businesses and is always on the go. It was great to see him as it's hard to catch him at the foundation. He spends most of his time at his other home in Sun Valley.
I'd write more but Spike and Bill are waiting for me to do laundry. woo hoo.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Travels with Bill Hamilton

Patty Bill and I went to Santa Barbara around sunset to have dinner and see a movie at the Arlington Theater. It just happened to be the week of the Santa Barbara Film Festival. It's a big deal as is the history of the Arlington Theater. The next day we went to The Surfing Heritage Foundation in San Clemente. That's Patty cooking while Bill is playing the guitar.

Monday, January 26, 2009

A different perspective

Welcome Bill from Florida! He arrived Sunday night and today he even got a surf in. So Bill what do you think so far??? Actually Patty I'm still a little jet lagged so thinking is something I'm not doing too well just yet. However what I don't have to think about is that I'm really happy to be in California again. I'm REALLY happy to see you and Spike again and I'm really looking forward to surfing some fun little California peelers. How did Jim Morrison put it? "The west is the best, the west is the best. Get here and we'll do the rest." Yeah!

Sunday, January 25, 2009


It chilled down today and windy. Here is Gerry's favorite yogee (ck past blogs if you want to know who Gerry is) peddling her way to a Ventura style class which is different from her Florida workshops.


The young man on the left is Brock Reynolds. He is a good friend, shreds waves to pieces, a talented artist in several mediums and the prince of the electric guitar. He also plays drums and dabbles with the violine. The other young man is Howard "Howdy" Kelly. We don't know which one of us (Patty or me) loves him more but I'm 100% sure he's hoping it's Patty. His talents go to deep and the list is too long. He and this ole ex matador who made me a guitar along with a buddy who discovered Cape Saint Francis in South Africa are guys I aspire to.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Nugget's Rainy Report

Hi, Yeah, It's me with a mug shot taken during my last escape. It was cool until that big train came zooming by and scared the holy crap outta me. I went running back down the embankment and beelined it back in my cell. Surf is a couple feet bigger when the sets come in but I don't feel like waiting. The outside reef is breaking about 3 to 4 ft overhead and my pop is getting that stupid wetsuit thingie on..takes him forever.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Patty's New Buddy

What can one say about this regular who is as passionate about fishing as Californians are about their waves. Nice sunset yesterday!

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

It's a wonderful day

Inauguration Day. What more can I say? It's a beautiful day!

Monday, January 19, 2009

Rico's mid day Report

A great morning on the outside. Pics don't portray it at 3 ft overhead. Patty took the surf shots on my 3rd paddle out of the day with one taken on the inside as I was coming ashore.
high of 85
waves: 8ft in the 2nd session /outside reef break
conditions: glass

Sunday, January 18, 2009


Well..The huge waves never came although it was still picture perfect as depicted in yesterdays photos. Today as I was looking for waves that never materialized..this did. She's here everyday and besides being the only female in the water she is the only surfer who never needs a wetsuit and..she rips!

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Friday, January 16, 2009

Living like kings

Just when we were thinking of how small our place is, this Volkswagen van parks next to us in Carpinteria. This couple from Oregon live here. I watched her make breakfast - very delicately. Where she's sitting converts into a bed and the table folds up. They make it work though. I took the picture from inside our motorhome through the screen window because I didn't want them to see me staring and taking pictures.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Big Swell to Arrive Friday


So here we are around our computers, talking to lifeguards, watching the horizon, checking surfline every 5 minutes. It's all part of the ritual and it's fun and exciting.

For all who don't surf here is what's happening. Extremely large waves, originating in Japan, are due to hit the shoreline of California beginning tomorrow Friday. The storm creating these waves is so massive it is generating 55 to 85ft surf in Ireland, 30 to 50 footers for Hawaii and probably 20 to 30 ft. for central California. I may be off by 10 feet but at that size who's counting with the exception in California. Since we are parked 20 feet from the water's edge in front of one of the coasts favorite big wave surfing locations, we are told by the camp rangers we may have to evacuate.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Down Days in Carpinteria

Finally a picture of the two of us. Tomorrow I'll show my face. We're in Carpinteria - just 20 minutes north of Ventura. Just here for a couple of days but it's nice to have hookups and a different view.

It's a very nice campground and today we explored the town on our bikes. We like it. We discovered a short cut to one of the main streets where we're going for dinner tonight.

This picture was taken right after the sunset in front of our motorhome. The sky was so orange. And we're enjoying the warm temperatures - it got up to the 80's today! Must be the Santa Ana winds. I'm not complaining.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

The Nugget and Rico Report

Pics from yesterday, Saturday the 10th.

Today Sunday it's about chest to head high here at Emma Wood State Beach but that will change when the tide drops.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Nugget's Surf Report

Hi, this is the cat - Nuggie. What do they think I am - chopped liver???

I look at the surf too. Every day.

So, today's surf report... well it's a beautiful sunny day. I don't know what it's like outside becauese they keep me locked up in here like a prisoner. Although I escaped TWICE yesterday - hee, hee. They were so worried about me they had to lure me in with food but I came back when I felt like it. Anyway, back to the surf report. I see a bunch of fools in that cold water. Why they sit there on their surfboards is beyond me. They all look alike in their wetsuits. Can't find my dad -he's out there somewhere. That's all for now. Planning my next escape...

Rico's morning report

Bark Bark,,Rico here with a little more than the morning report. My mama is going to flip when she sees this photo of her with her idol Gerry Lopez. She will blame it on my pops. HA! Waves are chest to headhigh plus with glassy condtions. 1st surfer of the day just paddled out and caught his 1st wave confirming this report. Yeah..some nice sets rolling in with 3 longboarders out now, Rare here at Emma Woods/Ventura Overhead.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Rico's morning report

These were shot this morning. It really kicked in around 4:30 this afternoon. I was talking with a Lifeguard/ranger buddy (that's Ian in the lifeguard truck) and it began rolling thru with overhead peaks.

The other shot is my good friend Rob who has been working for Patagonia 15 years. I made the long paddle out to the mid break. I'll call it inside Overhead. It was several feet over the head with lots of kelp and spooky kinda living stuff.

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Rico's Dad Reports

C Street was the best. Here at Emma Wood it was fun. I should have gone left.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Rico's morning report

It should be light enough outside in about 15 minutes for a Monday dawn patrol report. Until are a few pics from yesterday. They were taken throughout the day and reflect various moods and textures. The Overhead broke about every 30 minutes. Although rideable at low tide (3 guys outside) it lacked consistency. There were waves everywhere. The movie "One California Day" repeated itself in real time. Here is also a sequence of 3 shots of the Overhead waking up and beginning to break. The peak I zoomed in on was 8ft. or bigger. It can't break top to bottom with anything smaller. It's still dark out but I can feel and hear waves pounding. r/s

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Address - until April 2nd

For those of you that asked us for a mailing address it is:

35 W. Main St., Suite B #362
Ventura, CA 93001

We can get any type of mail there and they will also forward it if needed but remember it's only good until April 2nd.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Surf report 1-3-09

The photos were taken this morning of a building swell in the waist to chest high range. Sorry about the quality as I had duty this a.m. and not much time.

At 1:45 pm this afternoon: swell has increased by a foot or more.

Size: 3 to 5ft

surface condition: Glass

Friday, January 2, 2009


It's about 6am. I'm just sitting here waiting for the daylight. I have to get up at least an hour before Patty so she never finds out what I really look like 1st thing in the morning. r/s

Thursday, January 1, 2009

New Year

Happy 2009! Wishing everyone a great year. So how many of you stayed up till midnight??? Not us. We hung with fellow RVers and ate and drank with them. It was cold last night but they had a nice hot fire going. We lasted until 10pm.

Busy day yesterday. Spike and I worked in the kiosk all morning along with another seasoned employee. This place is packed. We had to open the gate for more spots. Even after we closed people were knocking on our door wanting to buy firewood. That's the bad thing about being where we are. There's a big sign in front of our motorhome that says, "Camp Host". But everyone is really nice.

Taking it easy today. It's new years day after all! Think I'll make some split pea soup.

This picture is of Spike riding into town. This is the path we take. Pretty soon he'll be picking up his bike to go over a small wooden bridge then over the tracks and the rest is pretty easy.

Most of you know we're movie buffs. so here's another good movie to see - "The curious case of Benjamin Button". Mom/Dad - go see it! It's really good.