Saturday, January 31, 2009

Too much surf


Actually there isn't any surf right now. The day Bill got here is when the surf died. However he did manage to get 3 hours in the water yesterday.
Regarding the two pictures below Spike didn't embellish on those two days because he knows I'm been saturated with surf and surf talk. The movie we went to see in Santa Barbara was called Waverider. It was the premier showing so all the surfers were there including Keith Malloy and Kelly Slater. They discussed the movie afterwards and answered questions. It was mainly about surfing in Ireland so the Irish director, Irish surfer (don't remember his name), script writer, cinematographer, producer, etc were all there. Of course Spike and Bill left their cameras in the car.
The next day we took off for San Clemente (we're taking advantage of Bill's rental car) to show Bill the Surfing Heritage Foundation which was founded by Dick Metz Spike's old buddy. I mean "Robbie's" old buddy - that's he calls him. Spike used to run his hobie shop in Hawaii in the late 60's or maybe it was early 70s not sure. Dick is a great guy. He's 80 years old but very wry. There's no way he looks or acts 80. He has so much going on with his businesses and is always on the go. It was great to see him as it's hard to catch him at the foundation. He spends most of his time at his other home in Sun Valley.
I'd write more but Spike and Bill are waiting for me to do laundry. woo hoo.
P.

1 comment:

  1. For a guy who is used to surfing beach break the waves have actually been very fun. Small but clean and peeling. C Street and Ventura Point just peel down the beach. The smallest day was Wed. thigh - waist with a few chest high on the drop. Only Mon. afternoon at C Street was onshore. Every other session was clean and offshore. Since the conditions have not been anything special by local standards there havent been any crowds to deal with and back in Florida its small and windblown so I'm stoked. The 9'3" strawberry/blueberry smoothie fits real well in these clean California pockets too!

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