Saturday, December 20, 2008

Evening session surf report/Friday, 12-19

Around 3 pm a longboarder paddled out in 2ft glass. Rico and I were sanding an exopy patch repairing a foot long hole I put in the port side of the RV with curious Nugget watching us from the window. All the while I kept watching this guy catching little peaks. Around 4pm two more guys were in the line up and the peaks were a foot bigger on take off and were beginning to line up in fast little 2 ft walls on the inside. I compare any small waves to my favorite spot. A break known as STEPS in Puerto Rico. If I find myself saying " Hey, that looks like Steps" I paddle out. So...Caught my first waves since arriving here in Ventura and was stoked as the waves were in fact just like STEPS down to the setting sun back lighting the top half of the wave. That O' Neil wetsuit with the "Firewall" inner layer kept me dry. r/s

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