Friday, May 14, 2010

THE OLD AND THE NEW

My Great niece, Dakota Brown, Santa Monica Beach about 2007. Same beach where I first stood up on a wave in 1959.
This guy brought in a CC RIDER from the 1960's while I was visiting Dick.

Dick Metz hired me off the beach at the Outrigger Canoe Club in the late 60's to be manager of his Hobie Store in Honolulu. He's been a friend and mentor ever since. He founded the Surfing Heritage Foundation maybe 10 years ago in San Clemente, California. SHF is the mother load including one of DUKE'S boards from the 1930's. It's value estimated at a quarter million dollars. The board in this pic was given to him by the guys that used to steal beer from Dick (he owned a liquor store in Hunington Beach in the late 50's) while he was out surfing the H.B. Pier.


Barry Hann, SHF curator. Barry is up 5 mornings a week, without fail, surfing San O before work.



Tom Pezman and Dick with a photo taken by Larry Pope along with a piece of art by Bruce Reynolds lower right.




The oldest surfboard in exsistence. Built in Oregon in 1882.




















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