Sunday, November 24, 2013


Last evenings smaller surf at STEPS was arguably the best I've had in 54 years. Two hours of 5 foot perfection at Tres Beach.

Justin and I were the only two there, the sun was setting, the shoreline was lit up and on fire and we did a non stop rotation.

Justin said he could see the color of my rash guard and the outline of the upper body from the back of a head high barrel.

I've only caught it like this 3 times during a dozen trips spread over 8 years.Alltimers (please excuse the spelling) could not erase this memory.

Here's a photograph or two Patty took about 6 years ago. I don't believe it does justice to the experience yesterday.
A foot larger than this.... last evenings waves were more lined up, glassy and barreling inside out producing a speedy zipline ride for a minimum of 50 yards, like clockwork, every wave.

Barker,...... Patty and I were talking about you during our phone conversation  yesterday just before walking to STEPS BEACH. You were in each and every wave with me and the golden palms lining the shore. Sitting on my board as the torching red and orange sun was dipping down and cut in half by the horizon,  I spread my arms out full length, raised my head toward the sky and thought " this is for you dude".

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