The best part of big-wave surfing is the moment when all your senses are engaged.Putting yourself in a life-threatening situation forces you to be totally and completely present and makes you feel like you are one with the universe for a split second. I have never been able to get to that place any other way. There's nothing quite like that rush you get from paddling into a wave the size of a two-story house.
Keala Kennelly

Original photo: Justin Credable

 the other pay off an't to bad either !