I remember Wayne and I sitting in his living room getting altered one night when a very large wave came crashing through his front door at Sunset Point during the beginning hours of the infamous 1969 swell. The same swell that retired Gregg Noll's big wave surfing exploits. The same swell that Wayne and I , early the next morning ( after that scene at Jackie's the night before ) stood atop Pupakia Heights over looking Wiamea Bay. The same swell that I counted one wave at the bay taking 9 seconds to pitch from top to bottom. It was all in extra slow motion.
We all went to Venice High School and Jackie could surf circles around us
We all moved to Hawaii in 68 ( I moved October, 1967 ) and Jackie would surf circles around us
R.I.P. JB
a shout out to Wayne: Poncho, proof this and send me corrections if necessary
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