Sunday, February 8, 2009
2nd blog Saturday
I caught the best waves from 4:30pm to 6pm since Tres Palmas. Tom Curren and myself were the only guys out at Ventura Overhead (the real deal as opposed to the inside reef) for the 1st half hour. He called it double overhead. He also said C st was as good as it gets at the same size. Sunny with the evening glass off. He is a super nice guy giving me pointers and encouragment. Man oh Man did he ever catch some meaty walls of glassy perfection. I've met many superdudes since being here. The lifeguards in particular are the best. They see me as they pull into the park and are always smiles and hand signaling me to get my ass in my wetsuit and paddle out with them. I was the last guy in last night and it was almost dark. Curren was the 1st in. He and his buddy waited for me in their truck to make sure I made it in. When I did and began walking up the beach, they gave me a flash of their headlights signaling the end of a supreme evening of perfect waves and new friends.